Kyoto 2015 Garden Tour – Day 2 | Eikando, Nanzen-ji & More Temples

Day 2 was a garden-lover’s dream. We visited several breathtaking temple gardens, each one offering its own atmosphere, stories, and treasures. It was hard to resist writing about every detail, but here are the highlights of a very special day.

Eikando (Zenrin-ji) – The Turning Amida

Our morning began at Eikando (Zenrin-ji), a temple with a deeply spiritual history. It is said that Abbott Eikan, chief priest from 1033–1111, once witnessed the Buddha Amida come alive from a statue here on a freezing February morning in 1082. Amida turned his head back towards the priest and beckoned him forward — a gesture now captured forever in the temple’s famous “Turning Amida” statue, which invites us all toward enlightenment.

Walking barefoot across the polished wooden floors, we could almost imagine that same icy chill Eikan must have felt.

The temple complex is impressive: a two-story pagoda with sweeping views of Kyoto, grand Karamon gates, and the Amida-do Hall. From the pagoda’s hilltop, wooden stairs snake gracefully downward, earning the name Garyuro (“Sleeping Dragon Corridor”). Along the way, we found hidden details: a mossy lantern with a carved deer pausing as if wary of the dragon, the wise Sanko-no-matsu pine tree whose three-needle clusters symbolize knowledge, mercy, and sincerity, and a small waterfall tucked away beside the Amida-do stairway.

The main pond garden, with its maple trees ablaze in red, was an ideal spot to pause and soak in the grandeur of Kyoto’s autumn.

Nanzen-ji Sub-Temple Garden

A short walk brought us to a smaller, quieter garden within the Nanzen-ji complex. Enfolded by trees, this place had an otherworldly stillness. A monk’s chanting echoed through the walls, deep and resonant, heightening the sense of enchantment.

The karesansui (dry rock garden) is complemented by remnants of an ancient pathway dating back before the temple’s destruction during the Ōnin War (1467–1477). Beyond the rock garden, two ponds invite exploration: one crossed by a narrow wooden bridge, the other encircled by a winding path dotted with mossy huts. Were these for kodama (tree spirits), emerging only at dusk? The atmosphere suggested as much.

The late 14th-century design felt timeless — human craftsmanship blending seamlessly with nature’s spirit.

Shoren-in – Elegance and Imperial Connection

Next we visited Shoren-in, a temple with close ties to the Imperial family. Its main garden features a long pond, a graceful mound, and an unusual stone island — strikingly different from typical gardens of its time. The great stone in the pond resembles the back of a submerged serpent, drawing the eye towards mossy hills and constellations of white stones.

A waterfall flows at the base of Mount Awata, crossed by a semi-circular granite bridge, while a solitary tree twists upward as if in motion. This garden invites visitors to sit quietly, tea in hand, and savor the calm.

In front of the Shinden building, a Heian-style south garden unfolds: two solitary trees (a weeping cherry and a mikan) stand apart on a mossy lawn, while two ancient camphor trees, thought to be 800 years old, guard the temple entrance. Their silent presence made us wonder how many centuries of Kyoto’s history they have witnessed.

Entoku-in (Kodai-ji) – A Garden of Mourning

As daylight faded, we arrived at Entoku-in, part of the Kodai-ji complex. This garden was designed by Nene, wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, in mourning after his death in 1605.

Here, stones dominate the design, each one dedicated by samurai to Nene. Sitting quietly, they seemed to develop personalities: some angular and craggy, others softened by lichen, all with silent voices as if in conversation. The longer we looked, the more they resembled an ancient council of spirits.

The garden radiates an atmosphere of memory, loss, and whispered secrets.

Evening Light-Up & Tea Ceremony

To end our day, we experienced a traditional tea ceremony at Camellia Tea Ceremony, which we highly recommend. Our hostess was graceful and welcoming, and it was a perfect way to slow down after a full day.

As night fell, we returned to Kodai-ji for its illuminated garden event. While projection-mapped images danced across the karesansui garden, we preferred the natural beauty. Still, the glowing bamboo and a golden dragon head created a mystical nightscape that was hard to forget.

Another extraordinary day in Kyoto — and just one more left on our tour!

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