Kyoto Garden Tour 2015 — Day 3: Shigemori, Koke-dera & Secret Gardens

The final day of our Kyoto garden tour was full of contrasts — from modern interpretations of Japanese gardens to moss-covered temples steeped in ancient tradition.

Matsuno-taisha — Shigemori’s Modern Gardens

We began at Matsuno-taisha, one of Japan’s oldest Shinto shrines, founded in 701 AD. The shrine’s gardens were designed by Mirei Shigemori (1896–1975), a self-taught visionary who coined the term “eternal modern” to describe his work. Shigemori’s gardens synthesize traditional and modern design, balancing human influence with nature, and exploring innovative forms while respecting centuries-old aesthetics.

The first garden stood out immediately: quiet and still, with grey stones slowly warming in the morning sun. A concrete-bottomed stream reflected the light, contrasting sharply with red-tinted gravel and yellow bamboo fences. The “Garden of Ancient Times,” with its huddled monoliths of blue chlorite stone, evokes geological epochs frozen in place, one of Shigemori’s most revered designs.

Further along, a large pond and waterfall added movement and sound. Moss, lichens, and carefully placed bushes softened the concrete shoreline. Carp glided beneath islands of white gravel, creating a meditative balance between playfulness and contemplation.

Kegon-ji (Suzumushi-dera) — Bell Cricket Temple

Next, we visited Kegon-ji, also called Suzumushi-dera. Its small garden sits atop a hill, offering stunning views of Kyoto framed by fiery autumn leaves. The temple is named for the bell crickets kept here year-round. The garden is compact, featuring moss, small stones, lanterns, and winding paths. Dead wood stretches skyward, seemingly strong even in decay, while trails lead into bamboo and mixed woodland beyond.

Jizō-in — Enclosed Moss Garden

A short walk brought us to Jizō-in, approached via a bamboo holloway and shaded by gnarly, ancient trees. Its enclosed garden felt damp, mossy, and almost forgotten, a place of quiet reflection untouched by the morning sun. The moss-covered ground and miniature fern-fronds created an intimate, secretive space, perfectly humid and soothing.

Saihō-ji (Koke-dera) — The Moss Temple

The highlight of the day was Saihō-ji, famously known as Koke-dera (“Moss Temple”). Visitors participate in a chant before entering, creating a reverent, meditative atmosphere. Inside, more than 120 moss species carpet the garden, forming a soft, intricate landscape around a central aquamarine pond.

Saihō-ji Garden Guide

This eBook explores the history, symbolism, and design of Saihō-ji, Kyoto’s celebrated Moss Temple.
Perfect for garden lovers, Zen enthusiasts, and cultural travelers.
Learn more before you visit—or revisit from home.

Read more…

The moss blends with lichen climbing tree trunks and long roots, while fern-fringed bridges cross gentle streams. Autumn leaves in vibrant red and orange contrast beautifully with the green moss. Though originally unplanned, centuries of humid climate and careful neglect have transformed this garden into a living, breathing ecosystem.

Secret Garden & Café Visit

After leaving Saihō-ji, we stopped at a small café opposite the entrance. The owners, a well-traveled couple, created a cozy space filled with international memorabilia. Through a back door lies a tiny secret garden: lichen-covered stones, fern fronds, and autumn ginger leaves create a quiet, hidden charm worth discovering.

Day 3 offered a contemplative, inspiring end to our 2015 Kyoto tour — a journey spanning centuries, blending tradition with modernity, and revealing the enduring spirit of Japanese garden design.

How to plan a trip to Japanese gardens:

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