Field Trip to Kyoto Day 2 — Autumn 2014
Read about Day 1 here
The next morning, the plan was to cycle through Kyoto and discover its temples.
But as I am an Ame-on’na — a woman who attracts rain — the bicycles were cancelled, replaced by sturdy shoes and a huge umbrella.
Kennin-ji — Kyoto’s Oldest Zen Temple
Our first stop was Kennin-ji, founded in 1202 by Yōsai, the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto.
Its grounds hold several captivating gardens, such as Chō-on-tei — restored under the guidance of Yasuo Kitayama — and the famous “○△□” Garden, inspired by Sengai Gibon’s calligraphy.
Zen-style Karesansui gardens, a traditional tea house, and treasures like the “Wind and Thunder Gods” and “Twin Dragons” make Kennin-ji an art lover’s delight.
(If arriving from Gion, it’s the first building on your right after entering.)
A Pause at Yasaka Shrine and Maruyama Park
After lingering too long with my camera at Kennin-ji, we waited for our “private taxi” — actually the garden designer from last night’s dinner.
In the meantime, I visited Yasaka Shrine and took a quick stroll through Maruyama Park, snapping photos of a Korean model in kimono and a striking weeping willow.
Fun fact: In Japanese folklore, ghosts often dwell beneath weeping willows.
Maruyama Park, established in 1886, is famous for hanami (cherry blossom viewing).
Lunch at Tenkaippin — Kyoto’s Original Ramen Shop
Our lunch destination was Tenkaippin.. A famous Ramen chain. But the store I wanted to visit was the first Tenkaippin ever. And it was delicious! They offer a thick, rich ramen broth (kotteri) — exactly the kind of comfort food you want on a rainy Kyoto afternoon. If you like it a bit lighter, order asari.
It’s quite near to Kyoto Daigaku, the second most prestigious university in Japan after Tokyo Daigaku.
Jisso-in — A Monzeki Temple with Imperial Ties
Next, we headed into the mountains to Jisso-in, founded in 1229 and closely linked to the Imperial Family.
The moss-covered pond garden at the back was a lush green even in autumn, framed by Japanese maples.
Its front Karesansui garden, redesigned in 2013 by Ogawa Katsuaki of the famed Ueji family, is equally striking.
Reikan-ji — A Rare Autumn Opening
By car, our garden designer friend brought us to Reikan-ji, a temple that opens only during autumn and camellia seasons.
Founded in 1654, it houses brilliantly painted sliding doors that remain vibrant thanks to being kept away from sunlight.
We were lucky to see its Edo-period style garden with a small pond — full thanks to the day’s steady rain.
The Philosopher’s Path to Nanzen-ji
When the rain finally stopped, we strolled along the Philosopher’s Path, passing Hōnen-in, Ginkaku-ji, and Anraku-ji before reaching Nanzen-ji.
I climbed the grand gate for a panoramic view of Kyoto, then searched for the Ueji-designed hotel gardens Aoi-den and Kasui-en — sadly, it was already too dark for photos.
Kōdai-ji Light-Up Event
We reached Kōdai-ji after dark, joining a crowd for its illuminated gardens.
Founded in 1606 by Kita-no-mandokoro (known as “Nene”) in memory of her husband Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Kōdai-ji’s gardens are attributed to Kobori Enshū.
This time, I bypassed the buildings and went straight to the pond garden and bamboo grove — magical in the night light.
Kiyomizu-dera and a Moonlit Surprise
The day wasn’t over yet.
At Kiyomizu-dera, I searched for the legendary iron lifting rods (turns out they’re in the paid section).
Paying the extra fee rewarded me with not just the light-up event but also the most breathtaking moon over Kyoto.
Closing the Day with Spanish cuisine
We met our garden designer friend one last time for a late dinner at a Spanish restaurant near my hotel.
After countless steps, temple visits, and gardens — my Kyoto autumn garden trip Day 2 ended with tired feet and a happy heart.
End of Day Two
This was the end of day two. One more day to come!
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With twelve years of professional landscaping experience under her belt, Anika Ogusu is your perfect guide to the world of Japanese gardens. Her love of nature began early, in the woods near her childhood home and the garden of her grandmother’s house. During her teenage years she developed a strong interest in Japanese culture, and after university she decided to combine her love of Japan and gardens into a profession. Anika started her career as chief gardener in charge of the perennial valley at the Botanical Garden in Hamburg, Germany, then moved to Tokyo in pursuit of her dream. For two years she apprenticed under local landscape designers and learned the art of Japanese garden design, construction and maintenance. Now, in partnership with Real Japanese Gardens (www.japanesegardens.jp), her wish is to spread the magic of Japanese gardens to the rest of the world. Her in-depth guide books on gardens throughout Japan are available in eBook format or paperback. In her free time, Anika enjoys exploring her adopted country (especially green moss gardens), and soaking up nature and any details that interest her.
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With twelve years of professional landscaping experience under her belt, Anika Ogusu is your perfect guide to the world of Japanese gardens. Her love of nature began early, in the woods near her childhood home and the garden of her grandmother’s house. During her teenage years she developed a strong interest in Japanese culture, and after university she decided to combine her love of Japan and gardens into a profession. Anika started her career as chief gardener in charge of the perennial valley at the Botanical Garden in Hamburg, Germany, then moved to Tokyo in pursuit of her dream. For two years she apprenticed under local landscape designers and learned the art of Japanese garden design, construction and maintenance. Now, in partnership with Real Japanese Gardens (www.japanesegardens.jp), her wish is to spread the magic of Japanese gardens to the rest of the world. Her in-depth guide books on gardens throughout Japan are available in eBook format or paperback. In her free time, Anika enjoys exploring her adopted country (especially green moss gardens), and soaking up nature and any details that interest her.
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