Field Trip to Kyoto Day 3 — Autumn 2014

If you missed the start of this trip, catch up here:
Read Day 1 | Read Day 2

Arashiyama Temple Walk Kyoto — Hōgon-in & River Stroll

Our last day in Kyoto took us to the Arashiyama district, where we focused on special openings and mountain temples. This Arashiyama temple walk Kyoto turned into a full day of rain, moss, and rocks.

We met another designer friend and business partner—this time, not from the gardening world.

We began by walking along the river to Hōgon-in, a sub-temple of Tenryū-ji.
I’d long wanted to see its gravel bed of large blue stones, and it did not disappoint. The temple is known for its impressive rocks, lush moss, and calm atmosphere.

Hōgon-in was first built in 1461, relocated twice, and destroyed during the Onin War before finding its current home near Tenryū-ji in the Meiji period.

Hidden Gem – Kōgen-ji

Next, we visited Kōgen-ji, another Tenryū-ji sub-temple with a special seasonal opening. Founded in 1429, this small temple holds two gardens:

• A Karesansui (dry landscape) garden at the front
• A tranquil pond garden in the back

You can only enjoy them from inside, through the sliding doors and windows, making it an intimate viewing experience.

Through the Famous Bamboo Forest

From Tenryū-ji, we walked into the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove.
It’s stunning in photos, but in reality, the fences looked tired and overgrown with climbers. Perhaps it’s more magical in spring or summer.

Jojakko-ji – The Temple Without Walls

Our next stop was Jojakko-ji, a small pond garden surrounded by nature. The main hall was under construction, so views were limited.

The land was gifted to priest Nisshin in 1596 and became an affiliate of Honkoku-ji in 1892. Its nickname, “Temple Without Walls,” reflects its open, airy setting on Mount Ogura.

Giō-ji – A Moss Lover’s Dream

Then came one of my favorites: Giō-ji.
This tiny temple is nestled in a bamboo grove, with a moss carpet dotted with Japanese maples and a small stream.

The history is partly legend, tied to a beauty named Giō who became a nun after losing favor with the military leader Taira no Kiyomori. It’s a place that makes you understand why moss gardens are so loved in Japan.

The Famous Rock Garden of Ryōan-ji

Our final Kyoto temple was the world-famous Ryōan-ji.
I had visited in 2006, but wanted to return. We arrived an hour before closing—busy, but not overwhelming.

The rock garden, attributed to Zen monk Tokuho Zenketsu, is minimal yet endlessly fascinating. Many don’t realize Ryōan-ji also has a large pond garden and peaceful cedar forest.

The site was once the estate of the Fujiwara clan before being purchased by Hosokawa Katsumoto in 1450. After being destroyed in the Onin War, it was rebuilt by his son, Hosokawa Masamoto.

Ending the Trip – Autumn Beauty Overload

After Ryōan-ji, it was time to head back to Tokyo.
The maples were breathtaking, but after three days, I felt completely full of autumn. A little more, and I might not have been able to look at fall leaves again for a year!

Which temples should we visit next autumn? Tell us in the comments!
Of course you can also always let us know which eBook we should write next!

Anika

With twelve years of professional landscaping experience under her belt, Anika Ogusu is your perfect guide to the world of Japanese gardens. Her love of nature began early, in the woods near her childhood home and the garden of her grandmother’s house. During her teenage years she developed a strong interest in Japanese culture, and after university she decided to combine her love of Japan and gardens into a profession. Anika started her career as chief gardener in charge of the perennial valley at the Botanical Garden in Hamburg, Germany, then moved to Tokyo in pursuit of her dream. For two years she apprenticed under local landscape designers and learned the art of Japanese garden design, construction and maintenance. Now, in partnership with Real Japanese Gardens (www.japanesegardens.jp), her wish is to spread the magic of Japanese gardens to the rest of the world. Her in-depth guide books on gardens throughout Japan are available in eBook format or paperback. In her free time, Anika enjoys exploring her adopted country (especially green moss gardens), and soaking up nature and any details that interest her.

Support our Work on Patreon

Our Patrons are making our work possible and are the first to read!

Anika

With twelve years of professional landscaping experience under her belt, Anika Ogusu is your perfect guide to the world of Japanese gardens. Her love of nature began early, in the woods near her childhood home and the garden of her grandmother’s house. During her teenage years she developed a strong interest in Japanese culture, and after university she decided to combine her love of Japan and gardens into a profession. Anika started her career as chief gardener in charge of the perennial valley at the Botanical Garden in Hamburg, Germany, then moved to Tokyo in pursuit of her dream. For two years she apprenticed under local landscape designers and learned the art of Japanese garden design, construction and maintenance. Now, in partnership with Real Japanese Gardens (www.japanesegardens.jp), her wish is to spread the magic of Japanese gardens to the rest of the world. Her in-depth guide books on gardens throughout Japan are available in eBook format or paperback. In her free time, Anika enjoys exploring her adopted country (especially green moss gardens), and soaking up nature and any details that interest her.